GB 18267-2026Cashmere (English PDF)

3.1 Cashmere

The fibres with a diameter of 25 µm or less are obtained from goats (Capra hircus laniger).

NOTE: Based on processing conditions, cashmere includes raw cashmere, scoured cashmere, and dehaired cashmere. [Source: GB/T 11951-2018, 3.1.3.4, modified]

3.2 Raw cashmere

Unprocessed cashmere (3.1).

NOTE: There are two methods for obtaining raw cashmere from live goats. grasping and shearing.

3.3 Scoured cashmere

Cashmere (3.1) after washing and processing.

3.4 Dehaired cashmere

Cashmere (3.1) after washing and industrial combing.

3.5 Guard hair

Hair fibres with a diameter greater than 25 µm.

3.6 Dark fibres

Plush fibres that are significantly different from their original base color.

3.17.1 Peltry cashmere

Cashmere obtained from unprocessed and untanned goatskin.

3.17.2 Tanning cashmere

Cashmere obtained from processed and tanned goatskin.

3.17.3 Dry-dehaired cashmere

Cashmere obtained from goatskin using chemical methods.

3.17.4 Slipe cashmere

Cashmere obtained by soaking goatskin in lime water and then removing the grease by sifting it with talcum powder.

3.17.5 Acariasis cashmere

Cashmere obtained from goats suffering from scabies, with scabs and dandruff.

3.17.6 Moth-eaten cashmere

Cashmere that has been gnawed and shortened by moths.

3.17.7 Mildewed cashmere

Cashmere that becomes hot and deteriorates after getting damp.

5.1 Requirements

5.1.1 Technical requirements for the grades of raw cashmere are as per Table 2.

5.1.2 The average diameter and hand-pulled length in Table 2 are the assessment indicators, and the quality characteristics are the reference indicators.

5.1.3 Defect cashmere, including peltry cashmere, tanning cashmere, dry-dehaired cashmere, and slipe cashmere, shall be sorted and packaged separately. Acariasis cashmere, moth-eaten cashmere, and mildewed cashmere shall be removed and not mixed in.

5.1.4 The moisture regain of raw cashmere shall not exceed 13.0%.

5.2 Inspection methods

5.2.1 Instruments and equipment

5.2.1.1 Wool washing equipment. wool washing tank with an effective capacity of 10 L or more or sufficient to meet testing requirements, double-layer copper wire mesh bottom (100 mesh openings per 25 mm length) and a suitable drainage system.

5.2.1.2 Nonionic detergents.

5.2.1.3 Centrifugal dewatering machine and dewatering bags.

5.2.1.4 Eight-basket drying oven, with automatic temperature control at (105±2)°C.

5.2.1.5 Balance (graduation values. 1 g, 0.01 g, 0.0001 g).

5.2.1.6 Weighing instrument (graduation values. 0.1 kg, 0.01 kg, 0.001 kg).

5.2.1.7 Wool sheet (dark color, light color).

5.2.1.8 Steel ruler (graduation value. 1 mm).

5.2.1.9 Projection microscope/fibre diameter optical analyzer/laser scanning fibre diameter analyzer.

5.2.1.10 Fibre cutter.

5.2.1.11 Tweezers, glass slides, coverslips, liquid paraffin, etc.

5.2.1.12 Near-infrared spectrometer (wavenumber range of 4,000 cm^-1 to 1,0000 cm^-1, resolution of 2 cm^-1, 4 cm^-1 or 8 cm^-1).

5.2.2 Sample preparation

5.2.2.1 Batch sample preparation

5.2.2.1.1 Sampling ratio and quantity. for packages of 20 or fewer, sample from each package; for packages of more than 20, sample 30% of the additional packages; any fraction of a package is counted as one package. 50 kg of unpackaged goods is counted as one package. The total mass of the sampled goods shall not be less than 3 kg.

5.2.2.1.2 Sampling method. Samples are randomly drawn from the center of the sample package and another random location, at least 15 cm from the edge of the packaging.

The drawn samples are divided into two parts, A and B. Part A is used to assess hand-tear length, color category, quality characteristics, and defect cashmere; the total sample weight is not less than 1 kg. Part B is used for moisture regain, scoured cashmere content, pure cashmere content, and average diameter; the total sample weight is not less than 2 kg. After sampling, Part B shall be quickly placed into a sealed container and weighed within 8 h, recorded as ma, accurate to 0.001 kg.

5.2.2.2 Specimen preparation

5.2.2.2.1 Hand-pulled length specimens. from batch A, randomly select 10~20 hand-pulled length specimens using a multi-point method. For raw cashmere obtained by grasping, each specimen shall weigh 100 mg~150 mg. For raw cashmere obtained by shearing, each specimen shall weigh 200 mg~400 mg.

5.2.2.2.2 Color category, quality characteristics and defect cashmere specimens. […]