GB/T 22861-2018Worsted yarn interweave with woollen yarn fabric and semi-worsted fabric (English PDF)

3.1 Semi-worsted woven yarn

Yarn for machine weaving spun on the semi-worsted system from textile fibres of 25 mm to 60 mm in length.

3.2 Semi-worsted fabric

Wool fabric woven mainly from semi-worsted wool yarn.

3.3 Worsted yarn interweave with woollen yarn fabric

Wool fabric interwoven from worsted yarn and woollen yarn.

4.1 Basic safety requirements

The basic safety technical requirements of worsted yarn interweave with woollen yarn fabrics and semi-worsted fabrics shall comply with GB 18401.

4.2 Grading

4.2.1

The quality of worsted yarn interweave with woollen yarn fabrics and semi-worsted fabrics is divided into superior grade, first grade and acceptable grade.

4.2.2

The grade is assessed on the results of three inspections - physical quality, internal quality and appearance quality - and is determined by the lowest of them.

4.3 Grading of physical quality

4.3.1

Physical quality refers to the surface, handle and lustre of the fabric. For products of every specification put into regular production, sealed samples shall be established for the superior grade and for the first grade. For processing to a customer's sample, the manufacturer shall establish a sealed sample according to the requirements of the sample, confirmed by both parties, and at inspection each piece is graded by comparison with the sealed sample.

4.3.2

A product conforming to the superior grade sealed sample is of superior grade.

4.3.3

A product basically conforming to the first grade sealed sample is of first grade.

4.3.4

A product below the first grade sealed sample is of acceptable grade.

4.4 Grading of internal quality

4.4.1

Physical indicators are graded as specified in Table 1. Woollen-style fabrics are not assessed for deformation after wetting and dimensional change on steaming, and their pilling is tested according to the requirements for woollen fabrics; the seam slippage of casual apparel fabrics is 10 mm; loose-structure products are as agreed in the contract.

Table 1 - Requirements for physical indicators (superior / first / acceptable grade):

Width shortfall, cm <=: semi-worsted fabrics 2 / 2 / 5; worsted yarn interweave with woollen yarn fabrics 3 / 3 / 5

Tolerance on mass per square metre, %: -4.0 to +4.0 / -5.0 to +7.0 / -14.0 to +10.0

Static dimensional change, %: products containing 10% or more viscose -4.0 to +4.0 / -4.0 to +4.0 / -; other products -3.0 to +3.0 / -3.0 to +3.0 / -

Pilling (semi-worsted fabrics), grade >=: worsted style, raised surface 3-4 / 3 / 3; worsted style, clear surface 4 / 3-4 / 3-4; woollen style 3-4 / 3 / 3

Pilling (worsted yarn interweave with woollen yarn fabrics), grade >=: worsted style, raised surface 3 / 2-3 / 2-3; worsted style, clear surface 3-4 / 3 / 3; woollen style 3-4 / 3 / 3

Breaking strength, N >= 147 / 147 / 147

Tearing strength, N >= 12.0 / 10.0 / 10.0

Deformation after wetting, grade >= 4 / 3 / 3

Dimensional change on steaming, %: products containing elastic fibre -3.0 to +3.0 / -3.0 to +3.0 / -; other products -1.5 to +1.0 / -2.0 to +2.0 / -

Seam slippage, mm <= 6.0 / 6.0 / 8.0

Fibre content, %: in accordance with GB/T 29862

4.4.2

Colour fastness is graded as specified in Table 2. "Dry clean only" products are not assessed for colour fastness to washing and to wet rubbing; "hand wash with care" and "machine washable" products are not assessed for colour fastness to dry cleaning; for products containing wool with silk, cotton or linen, colour fastness to light is grade 3-4 for dark shades and colour fastness to wet rubbing is grade 2-3.

Table 2 - Requirements for colour fastness, grade (superior / first / acceptable grade):

Colour fastness to light >=: light shades 4 / 3 / 2-3; dark shades 4 / 4 / 3

Colour fastness to water >=: change in colour 4 / 3-4 / 3; staining of wool 3-4 / 3 / 3; staining of other adjacent fabrics 3-4 / 3 / 3

Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline) >=: change in colour 4 / 3-4 / 3; staining of wool 4 / 3-4 (dark shades 3) / 3; staining of other adjacent fabrics 4 / 3-4 (dark shades 3) / 3

Colour fastness to ironing >=: change in colour 4 / 4 / 3-4; staining of cotton 4 / 3-4 / 3

Colour fastness to rubbing >=: dry rubbing 4 / 3-4 / 3; wet rubbing 3-4 / 3 / 2-3

Colour fastness to washing >=: change in colour 4 / 3-4 / 3-4; staining of wool 4 / 3-4 / 3; staining of other adjacent fabrics 4 / 3-4 / 3

Colour fastness to dry cleaning >=: change in colour 4 / 4 / 3-4; staining of adjacent fabric 4 / 4 / 3-4

Note: the 1/12 depth card is used to judge whether a fabric is of "light (medium-light)" or "dark" shade.

4.4.3

For "machine washable" products, dimensional change on washing is assessed as specified in Table 3.

Table 3 - Requirements for dimensional change on washing of "machine washable" products (superior, first and acceptable grade; suits, trousers, outerwear sets, overcoats, dresses, jackets and skirts / shirts and evening wear):

Relaxation dimensional change, %, limit >=: width -3 / -3; length -3 / -3; washing programme 1×7A / 1×7A

Total dimensional change, %, limit >=: width -3 / -3; length -3 / -3; edge -1 / -1; washing programme 3×5A / 5×5A

4.4.4

The grade of internal quality is assessed comprehensively on the physical indicators and the colour fastness, and is determined by the lowest item; for "machine washable" products the indicator of dimensional change on washing is added.

4.5 Appearance quality

4.5.1

According to their effect on wear and the way they occur, appearance defects are divided into local appearance defects and spread appearance defects, which are respectively flagged and graded.

4.5.2

Local appearance defects are flagged within the specified range; each flag carries a length allowance of 10 cm, and within 10 cm in the warp direction only one flag is made, however many defects there are.

4.5.3

For spread appearance defects, where two or more of burl marks, stretcher marks, shearing marks, crease marks, abraded white yarn, knots, warp bars, weft bars, thick places, thin places, abrasion, spots, missing yarn, open seams, small floats, severe small bowed yarn and shade variation between the edges are at the same time at the lowest grade of acceptable grade, the piece is downgraded to non-conforming.

4.5.4

The flagging of downgraded products is as follows:

- in acceptable grade products, thin places, weft bars, shuttle trap marks, stretcher marks, burl marks, shearing marks, spider webs, spots, holes, tight warp streaks, mending marks, missing yarn, hard crease marks, abrasion, severe thick places, severe open seams, severe thin weaving, severe weft-stop bowed yarn and damage are flagged within the specified range; the other defects are not flagged;

- in non-conforming products, holes, severe thin places, spider webs, mending marks, shuttle trap marks and abrasion are flagged within the specified range; the others are not flagged.

4.5.5

Local appearance defects are in principle not cut out; however, holes larger than 2 cm, severe abrasion, abrasion and damaging shuttle trap marks, weft bars seriously affecting wear, severe spots larger than 10 cm, continuous defects 5 m in net length and 5 flags within 1 m shall be cut out in the factory.

4.5.6

Where there is on average 1 flag per 2 m of net length, the piece is downgraded according to the provisions for spread appearance defects.

4.5.7

Superior grade products have on average one flag per 20 m (less than 20 m is counted as 20 m), and first grade products on average one flag per 10 m (less than 10 m is counted as 10 m); for special products, this is agreed between the supplier and the purchaser according to the characteristics of the product.

4.5.8

A shade variation between the edges of grade 4 is acceptable grade; grade 3-4 and below is non-conforming.

4.5.9

The flagging and grading requirements for appearance defects are given in Table 4, in which:

- defects within 1.5 cm of the edge (for fabrics with selvedge lines, edge defects extending no more than 0.5 cm into the fabric from the inner side of the selvedge line) are not assessed in grading, but holes at the edge, broken edges, burls on the edge, abrasion of the edge, needle rust on the edges of bleached fabrics and defects of the selvedge lettering shall all be assessed. Where a defect extends inside the edge, the part inside the edge shall be measured together with it;

- severe small floats, and small missing yarns and small bowed yarns (including weft-stop bowed yarn) below the flagging starting point, small snarls, small slubs, open seams, knots, joint holes and small spots of 0.5 cm or less that clearly affect the appearance are flagged once when they total 5 within 20 cm in the warp direction. Where small missing yarn, small bowed yarn, knots and joint holes are severely spread over the whole piece, it is downgraded to non-conforming;

- superior grade products shall not have holes, spider webs, abrasion or shuttle trap marks of 1 cm or more, and shall not have severe weft bars.

Table 4 - Flagging and grading requirements for appearance defects (defect: degree - local flags / spread grading), warp direction:

1) Coarse yarn, fine yarn, double yarn, loose yarn, tight yarn, wrong yarn, local narrowing of the fabric: noticeable, 10 cm to 100 cm - 1 flag; over 100 cm, per 100 cm - 1 flag; noticeable, spread over the whole piece - acceptable grade; severe, spread over the whole piece - non-conforming

2) Oily yarn, soiled yarn, off-colour yarn, abraded white yarn, knots, stretcher marks, shearing marks: noticeable, 5 cm to 50 cm - 1 flag; over 50 cm, per 50 cm - 1 flag; spread over the whole piece - acceptable grade; noticeable, spread over the whole piece - non-conforming

3) Missing warp, hard crease marks: noticeable, 50 cm and below - 1 flag; over 50 cm, per 50 cm - 1 flag; noticeable, spread over the whole piece - non-conforming

4) Warp bars (including leno warp bars), crease marks (including streak crease marks), streak water marks (moire), warp yarn change marks, abrasion, shade variation between the edges, shade variation between the two ends of the piece: noticeable, 50 cm to 100 cm in the warp direction - 1 flag; over 100 cm, per 100 cm - 1 flag; noticeable, spread over the whole piece - acceptable grade; severe, spread over the whole piece - non-conforming

5) Streaks, colour flecks: noticeable, 20 cm to 100 cm in the warp direction - 1 flag; over 100 cm, per 100 cm - 1 flag; noticeable, spread over the whole piece - acceptable grade; severe, spread over the whole piece - non-conforming

6) Burl marks: noticeable, 20 cm and below in the warp direction - 1 flag; over 20 cm, per 20 cm - 1 flag; noticeable, spread over the whole piece - non-conforming

7) Burled edge, abrasion of the edge, fuzzy selvedge lettering, incomplete selvedge lettering, severe staining of selvedge lettering, needle rust on the edges of bleached fabrics, pin holes and needle rust extending more than 1.5 cm in from the edge, wavy edge, dense edge: noticeable, 1 cm to 100 cm - 1 flag; over 100 cm, per 100 cm - 1 flag; spread over the whole piece - acceptable grade

8) Holes at the edge, broken edges: 2 cm to 100 cm - 1 flag; over 100 cm, per 100 cm - 1 flag; noticeable, spread over the whole piece - acceptable grade; severe, spread over the whole piece - non-conforming. Remark: holes at the edge and broken edges below the flagging starting point are still flagged once when they total more than 5 cm within 1 m.