FZ/T 73032-2017Knitted jeanswear (English PDF)

5.1 Requirements

Requirements are divided into two aspects. intrinsic quality and appearance quality. Intrinsic quality includes formaldehyde content, odor, pH, decomposable carcinogenic aroma Amine dye, fiber content, bursting strength, seam strength after trousers, rate of change in washing size, twist rate after washing, pilling, color fastness to water, sweat resistance Color fastness, dry rubbing fastness, soap fastness, light fastness, abrasion resistance, quality after washing, etc.; appearance quality includes Indicators such as surface defects, dimensional differences in symmetrical parts, dimensional deviations of main parts of the finished product, and sewing regulations.

5.2 Classification regulations

5.2.1 The quality grade of knitted denim garments is divided into superior products, first-class products and qualified products.

5.2.2 The quality of knitted denim clothing is determined. the internal quality is based on criticism, the appearance quality is evaluated by piece, etc., and the combination of the two is determined by the lowest level.

5.2.3 Intrinsic quality indicators, with the lowest one of the test results as the basis for the evaluation of the batch of products.

5.2.4 Appearance quality evaluation shall be determined according to the surface defects, the difference in size, the deviation of the size and size of the main parts of the finished product, and the products specified by sewing.

Set, and so on. Only two extreme surface defects of the same grade are allowed on the same product, and one level is exceeded.

5.3 Intrinsic quality requirements

5.3.1 The internal quality requirements are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 Internal quality requirements

First-class quality products Formaldehyde content/(mg/kg) Odor pH value Decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amine dye/(mg/kg) Execute according to GB 18401

Table 1 (continued)

First-class quality products Fiber content /% According to GB/T 29862 Burst strength/N >= 250 After the pants, the seam strength/N >= 140 Washing dimensional change rate /% Straight-3.0~ 1.0 -4.0~ 1.5 -5.0~ 1.5 Horizontal -3.5~ 1.0 -4.5~ 1.5 -5.5~ 1.5 Twist rate after washing /% Top 2.5 3.0 3.5 Trousers, long skirt 1.5 2.5 3.5 Pilling/class >= 3-4 3 2-3 Color fastness to water/grade >= Discoloration, staining 3-4 3 Color fastness to perspiration/grade >= Discoloration, staining 3-4 3 Soap fast color fastness/grade >= Color change 3-4 Stained 3 2-3 2-3 Dry rubbing fastness/grade >= 3-4 3 Light fastness/grade >= 4 3 Wear resistance/time >= 18000 Appearance quality after washing the printing part is not allowed to foam or fall off, and the sewing thread of the embroidery part is not serious.

Smooth, the decal parts are not disengaged, the attachments are not detached, rusted, and the hot drilling does not fall off

5.3.2 Elastomeric products (products containing elastic fibers) do not assess the dimensional change rate and bursting strength of the transverse washing.

5.3.3 The pilling only evaluates the front, and the front-grinding, napping, flocking products do not evaluate the pilling.

5.3.4 Special designs and non-straight tops, skirts with short hips smaller than the hem, short skirts and shorts do not assess the distortion rate after washing.

5.3.5 The abrasion resistance is not evaluated for fabrics of 245 g/m2 and below.

5.3.6 Children's knitted denim garments shall also comply with the relevant requirements of GB 31701.

5.4 Appearance quality requirements

5.4.1 Surface reviews and other regulations

See Table 2.

Table 2 Surface reviews and other regulations

名称 名称 名称 合格 合格 合格 合格 Color difference >= 4 grades between main materials and 3-4 grades between main and auxiliary materials 3-4 grades between the main materials, Level 3 between main and auxiliary materials Big belly yarn (two) is not allowed Main part. slight permission, Other parts are not allowed Slightly allowed Sewing twists and turns <= Main part and open line part 0.3cm, other parts 0.5cm Main part 0.5cm Main part. 0.5cm, Other parts. allowed

Table 2 (continued)

名称 名称 名称 合格 合格 合格 合格 Sewing oil stain <= collar, , bag parts are not allowed Light 20cm, Deep not allowed Deep 10cm Ironing and yellowing, discoloration is not allowed Damaged defects are not allowed Sewing unevenness does not allow slight permission to be clearly allowed, significantly not allowed Zipper is not uniform, not straight, does not allow slight permission, obviously allowed, significantly not allowed Lost work, wrong work, missing parts, broken defects are not allowed the defects not listed in the table shall be implemented in accordance with the provisions of GB/T 8878.

The degree of surface defects is performed in accordance with GSB16-2500.

Note 1. The main part refers to 2/3 of the upper part of the top, and there are no main parts of pants and skirts.

Note 2. Slight. Intuitively not obvious, can be seen through careful identification;

Obviously. does not affect the overall effect, but can feel the existence of defects;

Significant. A point that significantly affects the overall effect.

5.4.2 Symmetrical size difference

See Table 3.

Table 3 Symmetrical part size difference is in centimeters

Class of superior products, first-class quality products <=50 0.5 0.5 0.8 >50 0.8 1.0 1.5

5.4.3 Dimensional deviation of the main part of the finished product

See Table 4.

Table 4 The main part of the finished product specification size deviation unit is cm

Class of superior products, first-class quality products Straight (cloth length, sleeve length, pants length, skirt length) 60cm and above ±1.0 ±2.0 ±2.5 Below 60cm ± 1.0 ± 1.5 ± 2.0 Transverse (total shoulder width, 1/2 chest circumference, 1/2 waist circumference, 1/2 hip circumference) ±1.0 ±1.5 ±2.0 Note. 1/2 hip circumference only evaluates short skirt products.

5.4.4 Sewing regulations (not classified, etc.)

5.4.4.1 The stitch density specification is based on the product process requirements.

5.4.4.2 The product collar is straight, the door sill is straight, the zipper is smooth, and the ironing is smooth.

5.4.4.3 The sewing circuit of each part is straight, tidy, firm and elastic.

5.4.4.4 There shall be no two single jump stitches and continuous jump stitches within 30cm of each part of the seam. The chain stitches shall not allow the jump stitches.

5.4.4.5 There should be no obvious misalignment between the buckle and the eye, and the buckle is firm.

5.4.4.6 Embroidery, hot drilling and other decorative objects should be firm and flat.

5.4.4.7 Reinforce the joint at the shoulder, the joint of the crotch and the fork, and the edge of the seam with reinforcement lining, back needle, double needle stretch.

5.4.4.8 Sewing thread with strong strength, shrinkage, color and fabric is used for sewing products, except for decorative thread.

6.2 Intrinsic quality inspection

6.2.1 Formaldehyde content

Execute according to GB/T 2912.1.

6.2.2 Odor

Execute according to GB 18401.

6.2.3 PH value

Execute according to GB/T 7573.

6.2.4 Decomposable carcinogenic aromatic amine dye

Execute according to GB/T 17592.

6.2.5 Fiber content

According to FZ/T 01057 (all parts), GB/T 2910 (all parts), FZ/T 01026, FZ/T 01095, FZ/T 01101 carried out.

6.2.6 Bursting strength

According to the provisions of GB/T.19976-2005, the diameter of the steel ball is (38 ± 0.02) mm.

6.2.7 After the pants, the seam strength

It is carried out according to the method B of FZ/T 01031-2016, in which the yarn slip phenomenon is not included in the sample fracture reason. Test 1 piece, take According to the provisions of Appendix A, the joints should be appropriately widened to avoid the off-line affecting the test results.

6.2.8 Washing dimensional change rate

6.2.8.1 The test method for the dimensional change rate of water washing is carried out according to GB/T 8878, and the number of test pieces is 3.

6.2.8.2 The measurement method of water washing dimensional change rate is shown in Table 5.

Table 5 Water washing dimensional change rate measurement site

Category measurement site Tops, dresses the length of the garment is measured by the highest point of the shoulder seam.

1/2 bust is measured by the intersection of the sleeve quilting and the rib seam 5cm downward pants the length of the trousers is measured along the trousers from the side waist to the side of the trousers.

The middle leg is wide from the 1/2 to the side of the cuff Short skirt the length of the skirt is measured along the skirt from the side waist to the bottom of the skirt.

1/2 hip circumference is measured by 1/2 of the length of the skirt

6.2.8.3 Washing dimensional change rate measurement site.

a) The length of the top and the 1/2 bust are taken as the measurement parts of the straight and the lateral direction.

Based on the calculation, the measured value of the body of the 1/2 chest circumference is used as the calculation basis. The measurement position before and after the washing of the top is shown in Figure 1.

b) The trousers take the length of the trousers and the width of the middle leg as the measuring part of the straight and the lateral direction. The length of the trousers is calculated by the average of the length of the left and right trousers.

According to the horizontal direction, the average value of the width of the left and right middle legs is used as the calculation basis, and the measurement parts before and after the washing of the trousers are shown in Fig. 2.

c) The dress takes the length of the skirt and the 1/2 bust as the measurement part of the straight and the lateral direction. The average length of the skirt is 4 points around the back of the back body.

According to the calculation basis, the measurement value of the body of the 1/2 chest circumference is used as the calculation basis, and the measurement position before and after the washing of the dress is shown in Fig. 3.

d) The short skirt takes the length of the skirt and the 1/2 hip circumference as the measurement part of the straight and the lateral direction. The length of the skirt is calculated based on the average of the left and right side skirt lengths.

According to the measurement part of the skirt before and after washing, see Figure 4.

Figure 1 Example of measuring parts before and after washing

Figure 2 Example of measuring parts before and after washing the pants

Figure 3 Example of measuring parts before and after washing

Figure 4 Example of measuring parts before and after washing in the skirt

6.2.8.4 Calculation of results. Calculate the dimensional change rate of the straight or horizontal washing according to formula (1). The minus sign (-) indicates the dimensional shrinkage, positive sign ( ) Indicates that the dimension is elongated (inverted). The final result is revised according to GB/T 8170, retaining one decimal.

L1-L0

100% (1)

In the formula.

A --- Straight or horizontal washing dimensional change rate;

L1 --- average of the dimensions after straight or horizontal washing (accurate to 0.1cm) in centimeters (cm);

L0 --- Average of the dimensions before straight or horizontal washing (accurate to 0.1 cm) in centimeters (cm).

6.2.9 Distortion rate after washing

6.2.9.1 Measurement preparation

Spread the dimensional change rate of the product on a smooth countertop, gently tap it by hand, and each product has the highest skewness.

The side measurement is based on the average of the distortion rate of 3 pieces.

6.2.9.2 Measurement location and method

The measurement of the distortion rate of the top after washing is shown in Figure 5. The measurement of the distortion rate of the trousers after washing is shown in Figure 6. The distortion rate measurement section of the skirt after washing the bit is shown in Figure 7.

Description.

a---the distance between the point at which the rib seam and the sleeve quilt intersect perpendicularly to the bottom edge and the end point after twisting;

b---The distance between the rib seam and the quilting of the sleeve is perpendicular to the bottom edge.

Figure 5 Measurement of the distortion rate of the top after washing

Description.

a---the distance between the intersection of the inner seam and the side of the cuff and the end of the twist;

b---The distance between the bottom point and the inside of the hem.

Figure 6 Tear rate measurement part after washing

Description.

a---the distance between the point at the bottom of the skirt and the side seam and the intersection between the side seam and the bottom edge;

b---The distance between the skirt waist and the side seam is perpendicular to the bottom edge.

Figure 7 Twist rate measurement part of the skirt after washing

6.2.9.3 Calculation of results

The distortion rate after washing is calculated according to formula (2). The average value of the distortion rate after washing with 3 pieces of water is used as the calculation result, and finally according to GB/T 8170.

Make a contract and keep a decimal.

b ×100%

In the formula.

F---distortion rate.

6.2.10 Pilling

Execute according to the E method of GB/T 4802.1, and the rating is evaluated according to the style of the fabric and the shape of the pilling according to GSB16-1523.

6.2.11 Color fastness to water

Execute according to GB/T 5713.

6.2.12 Color fastness to perspiration

Execute according to GB/T 3922 regulations.

6.2.13 Color fastness to dry rubbing

According to the provisions of GB/T 3920, only for straight.

6.2.14 Color fastness to soaping

Execute according to the method A(1) in GB/T 3921-2008.

6.2.15 Light fastness to light

Execute according to the method 3 of GB/T 8427-2008.

6.2.16 Anti-friction performance

Execute according to GB/T 21196.2.

6.2.17 Appearance quality after washing

After washing and drying according to the washing dimensional change rate method specified in this standard, the evaluation is carried out in combination with Table 1.

6.3 Appearance quality inspection

6.3.1 Color difference rating

Execute according to GB/T 250 regulations.

6.3.2 Examples and specifications of finished product measurement parts

6.3.2.1 An example of the measurement position of the top is shown in Figure 8.

Description.

1---length;

2---1/2 bust;

3---sleeve length;

4---Total shoulder width.

Figure 8 Example of the measurement part of the top

6.3.2.2 An example of the measurement position of the trousers is shown in Figure 9.

Description.

1---length of pants;

2---1/2 waist circumference.

Figure 9 Example of the measurement part of the pants

6.3.2.3 An example of a skirt measurement site is shown in Figure 10.

Description.

1---skirt length;

2---skirt sleeve length;

3---1/2 bust;

4---1/2 waist circumference;

5---1/2 hip circumference.

Figure 10 Example of a skirt measurement site

6.3.2.4 The measurement site of the finished product is specified in Table 6.

Table 6 Specification of finished product measurement parts

Category number part measurement regulations coat

1 The length of the garment is measured by the highest point of the shoulder seam.

2 1/2 bust is measured by the intersection of the sleeve quilting and the rib seam 2cm downward 3 sleeve length the flat sleeve is measured by the intersection of the shoulder seam and the sleeve quilting to the middle of the cuff;

The raglan type is measured from the middle of the back collar to the middle of the cuff

4 The total shoulder width is flattened by the intersection of the shoulder sleeves pants

1 The length of the trousers is measured along the trousers from the side of the waist to the side of the trousers.

2 1/2 waist buckle button, straighten the middle of the waist width skirt 1 skirt length the dress is vertically measured at the highest point of the shoulder seam;

The short skirt is vertically measured along the skirt from the side waist to the bottom of the skirt.

2 sleeve length (dress) the flat sleeve is measured by the intersection of the shoulder seam and the sleeve quilting to the middle of the cuff;

The raglan type is measured from the middle of the back collar to the middle of the cuff 3 1/2 bust (dress) traverses 2cm down from the intersection of the quilt and the side seam 4 1/2 waist circumference the dress is tiling at the narrowest part of the waist;

The short skirt buckles the button and the middle side of the waist 5 1/2 hip skirt skirt waist level down 18cm