GB/T 3903.5-2011Footwear - General test methods - Appearance quality (English PDF)

Foreword

This Part of GB/T 3903 is drafted according to the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009. This Part replaces GB/T 3903.5-1995 General test method for footwear - Test method of appearance. Compared with GB/T 3903.5-1995, the major changes of this Part are as follows: - MODIFY the standard name into "Footwear - General test methods - Appearance quality"; - ADD the items "stability, chromatic aberration, Chinese footwear sizing, quarter curve length and dimensional deviation of the same part" (SEE serial numbers 2, 3, 4, 9 and 18 in Table 1); - ADD the requirements for counters, toe caps and uppers (SEE serial numbers 8, 15, 16, 19, 20 and 21 in Table 1); - ADD the test for the uneven sole thickness (SEE serial number 14 in Table 1). Some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. The issuing authorities of this document shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights This Part was proposed by the China National Light Industry Council. This Part shall be under the jurisdiction of the National Technical Committee for Standardization of Shoemaking (SAC/TC 305). Drafting organizations of this Part. Jiangsu Senda Footwear Industry Co., Ltd, Hagdon Footwear Industry Co., Ltd, Deerway Co., Ltd, Guangzhou Top Score Fashion Shoes Co., Ltd, and China Leather and Footwear Industry Research Institute. Main drafters of this Part. Dong Weimin, Zhao Zhonghua, Ding Minglu, Liang Yaohua, Zhang Weijuan and Qin Xiaobo. The previous released edition replaced by this Part is as follows: - GB/T 3903.5-1995. Footwear - General test methods - Appearance quality

1 Scope

China's national test method for the appearance quality of footwear. It specifies the terms and definitions, the test conditions, the gauges and equipment, and the procedure. Appearance is not a trivial requirement in footwear: it is the basis on which most shoes are accepted or rejected at final inspection, and the reason for the majority of returns from a retailer to a factory. What makes it difficult is that it is a judgement, and a judgement made by different inspectors under different light produces different results - which is a commercial dispute rather than a technical one. Standardising it means fixing the conditions under which the shoe is viewed, the distance and the light, defining the defects by name so that a rejection can be described, and where possible replacing judgement with measurement: the symmetry of a pair, the height of a heel, the alignment of a toe cap and the evenness of a stitch line can all be gauged rather than eyed.

This Part of GB/T 3903 specifies the test methods for the appearance quality of completed footwear (boots) for general wearing. This Part is applicable to the completed footwear (boots) for general wearing.

2 Normative references

The following documents are essential to the application of this document. For dated references, only the editions with the dates indicated are applicable to this document. For undated references, only the latest editions (including all the amendments) are applicable to this document.

GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in colour

GB/T 2703 Footwear - Vocabulary

GB/T 3293 Chinese last systems

3 Terms and definitions

The terms and definitions defined in GB/T 2703 are applicable to this document.

4 Test conditions

The test for the footwear's appearance quality shall be conducted in a well-lit environment.

5 Test gauges and equipment

5.1 Measuring tape for footwear, with the division value of 1.0mm.

5.2 Vernier caliper, with the division value of 0.02mm.

5.3 Steel ruler, with the division value of 1.0mm.

5.4 Height vernier caliper, with the division value of 0.02mm. Back seam deflection PLACE shoes upright on a horizontal plane. ALIGN the wide seating square's vertical edge to the lower point of the back seam. USE a steel ruler to measure the maximum distance BETWEEN the upper point of the upper's back seam AND the vertical edge of the square (SEE Figure 4). Quarter deflection PLACE shoes upright on a horizontal plane. ALIGN the wide seating square's vertical edge to the outsole's back point. USE a steel ruler to measure the maximum distance BETWEEN the back point of the quarter's top line AND the vertical edge of the square.

12 Outsole length USE a (tightened) measuring tape for footwear to measure the length BETWEEN outsole's front point AND outsole's (top piece's) back point (SEE Figure 5).

13 Outsole width CONTACT the inside of the outsole with the horizontal plane. STAND sideways in a vertical direction. USE a height vernier caliper to measure the maximum vertical distance BETWEEN the outside of the outsole AND the horizontal plane (SEE Figure 6). Outsole thickness For the outsole with even thickness, generally USE a steel ruler to measure the thicknesses of relevant parts. CUT the sole open along the outsole axis if necessary. USE a steel ruler to measure the thicknesses of relevant parts of the outsole at the incision, such as special-shaped or arc-shaped upper sole. When the dimensions cannot be measured by using a ruler, it is allowed to use a vernier caliper instead (SEE Figure 7). Top piece dimensions USE a vernier caliper to measure corresponding dimensions. Heel breast height USE a vernier caliper or steel ruler to measure the height of the front heel's horizontal vertical plane (the height to the outsole).

17 Heel height Assembled heels. PLACE shoes upright on a horizontal plane. USE a height vernier caliper to measure the vertical height OF the upper point on the centerline at the back of the heel TO the top piece (horizontal plane) (SEE Figure 2). Other heels. USE a height vernier caliper to measure the vertical height OF the heel's back point TO the ground during general wearing of this pair of shoes. CUT the back of this pair of shoes open along the heel centerline if necessary. USE a height vernier caliper to measure the height. Dimensional deviation of the same part FLATTEN a measuring tape for footwear against the shoes (boots). MEASURE from some reference point to some inspection point. TEST the differences of the same pair of shoes (boots). Loose grain of uppers BEND the leather surface (grain) inward for about 90°. If small and continuous wrinkles appear (or no wrinkles appear), and disappear after laying the surface (grain) flat, it indicates non-loose grain. If larger wrinkles appear on the surface, and do not disappear after laying the surface flat, it indicates loose grain. Crazing and crack grain of uppers HOLD one shoe with one hand. DIVE the index and middle fingers of the other hand into the shoe. Tightly TOP the inside of the upper. PERFORM visual observation to test upper changes. If cracks appear on the coating, it indicates crazing. If cracks appear on the leather layer, it indicates crack grain.