GB/T 23327-2025Woven adhesive interlining (English PDF)

Foreword

SAC/TC 209/SC10 (Subcommittee 10 on Cotton Textile of National Technical Committee 209 on Textile of Standardization Administration of China) is in charge of this English translation. In case of any doubt about the contents of English translation, the Chinese original shall be considered authoritative.

This document is drafted in accordance with the rules given in the GB/T 1.1-2020 Directives for standardization - Part 1: Rules for the structure and drafting of standardizing documents.

This document replaces the GB/T 23327-2009 Adhesive-bonded woven interlinings. In addition to a number of structural adjustment and editorial changes, the following deviations have been made with respect to the GB/T 23327-2009.

Revised the scope (see Clause 1, Clause 1 of the 2009 edition); added the terms and definitions of woven adhesive interlining (see Clause 3), and added the product identification (see 4.2).

Revised the name of inherent quality to physicochemical properties, added the indexes of deviation rate of weft threads count, dimensional change rate of composite specimen after steam-press, coating mass deviation rate and colour fastness, added the indexes of specimen width of 2.5 cm of peeling strength, revised the indexes of mass deviation rate per unit area and heat dimensional change rate of composite specimen (see 5.2, 5.2 of the 2009 edition).

Revised the indexes of skewness and local defects of appearance quality, added the indexes of flaking powder, revised the chapter sequence of appearance quality, with respect to width deviation, colour difference, skewness, local defects, spread defects, allowed piece quantity and piece length per roll (see 5.3, Table 2, 5.3, Table 2 of the 2009 edition).

Deleted Test method for performance of hot-melt adhesive penetration after adhesive lining pressing and bonding (see Annex A of the 2009 edition), Preparation method of assembled specimen (see Annex B of the 2009 edition), Determination of heat dimensional change rate (see Annex C of the 2009 edition) and Determination of surface appearance and dimensional change after washing for assembled specimen (see Annex D of the 2009 edition), and added Normative Annex A Assessment replicas for surface appearance changes of the adhesive interlining assembled specimen after laundering (see Annex A).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be subject to patent rights. The issuing body of this document shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent right.

This document was proposed by China National Textile and Apparel Council.

This document was prepared by SAC/TC 209 National Technical Committee 209 on Textile of Standardization Administration.

The previous editions replaced by this document are as follows: for the first time in 2009 issued as GB/T 23327-2009; this is the first revision.

1 Scope

China's national standard for woven adhesive interlining, the coated fabric that gives a shirt collar its stand and a jacket front its shape. Interlining is invisible in the finished garment and is exactly the component that ruins it when it is wrong: if the hot-melt adhesive lets go in the wash the collar bubbles, if it strikes through it stains the face cloth, and if the interlining shrinks at a different rate from the shell fabric the whole front puckers after the first laundering. Because the fault only appears in the customer's hands, weeks after the garment was cut, the interlining has to be bought on measured properties rather than on appearance. This document covers woven adhesive interlining made from cotton, man-made filament and pure or blended man-made yarn, in off white, bleached and dyed types, and it sets out the product classification and identification, the technical requirements, the inspection rules and the marking and packing, while describing the corresponding test and inspection methods. It grades products as superior, first or qualified on two separate axes - physicochemical properties judged by batch and appearance quality judged by roll, the lower of the two deciding the grade - and it fixes numerical limits for peeling strength before and after laundering at two specimen widths, dimensional change after washing and after steam-pressing, heat dimensional change, adhesive applied mass deviation, colour fastness, width deviation, colour difference, skewness, local and spread defects, flaking powder and hot-melt strike-through. Separate limits are given for shirt, outerwear, silk and fur interlining, because a silk blouse and a leather coat ask very different things of the same kind of product. The 2025 edition replaces GB/T 23327-2009: it adds the terms and definitions of woven adhesive interlining, adds peeling strength at 2.5 cm specimen width, adds flaking powder, adds the steam-press dimensional change of the assembled specimen, and replaces four of the old annexes with a single normative set of assessment replicas for surface appearance after laundering.

This document specifies the product classification and identification, technical requirements, inspection rules, marking and packing for woven adhesive interlining, and describes the corresponding test and inspection methods.

This document is applicable to woven adhesive interlining made of cotton, man-made filament, pure and blended man-made yarn as raw materials, include off white, bleached and dyed types.

2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some of all of their content constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Grey scale for assessing change in colour.

GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda.

GB/T 4666 Textiles - Fabrics - Determination of width and length.

GB/T 4668 Textiles - Woven fabrics - Determination of number of threads per unit length.

GB/T 4669-2008 Textiles - Woven fabrics - Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area.

GB/T 5711 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to drycleaning using perchloroethylene solvent.

GB/T 6152-1997 Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Colour fastness to hot pressing.

GB/T 8170 Rules of rounding off for numerical values and expression and judgement of limiting values.

GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics.

GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products.

GB/T 28465 Inspection rules for garment interlinings.

GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products.

GB/T 31902 Inspection method for appearance defects on garment interlining.

GB/T 31903 Identification, marking and packing for garment interlining.

FZ/T 01047 Standard light sources and conditions for visual assessment of textile colour fastness.

FZ/T 01081 Testing method for coating weight of fusible interlinings.

FZ/T 01082 Testing method for heat dimensional change of fusible interlinings.

FZ/T 01083 Testing method for surface appearance and dimensional change on dry cleaning for fusible interlinings.

FZ/T 01084 Testing method for surface appearance and dimensional change after washing for fusible interlinings.

FZ/T 01085-2018 Testing method for peeling strength of fusible interlinings.

FZ/T 01110 Testing method for adhesive penetration of interlining after pressing.

FZ/T 60031-2020 Testing method for surface appearance and dimensional change after steam-press for garment interlinings.

FZ/T 60034-2021 Testing method for flaking powder from adhesive-bonded interlinings.

FZ/T 60047 Testing method for dimensional change of garment interlinings after washing.

3 Terms and definitions

For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

3.1 woven adhesive interlining: adhesive interlining made of a woven base fabric, that is the product which is processed through dying and finishing of powder scattering, powder dotting, paste dotting, double dotting, etc.

3.2 shirt interlining: adhesive interlining used for parts of shirts collars, cuffs and plackets.

3.3 outerwear interlining: adhesive interlining used for parts of outerwear fronts, facings, bottoms, collars, pocket flaps, armholes and cuffs.

3.4 silk interlining: adhesive interlining used for silk and silk-like garments.

3.5 fur interlining: adhesive interlining used for leather, fur, artificial leather garments, etc.

6 Test and inspection methods

6.1 The test method for threads count shall be carried out according to the requirements in GB/T 4668. Calculate the deviation rate of weft threads count according to Formula (1), and round off the result to one decimal place according to the requirements in GB/T 8170. In Formula (1), D is the deviation rate of weft threads count, D1 is the measured value of weft threads count expressed in threads per 10 cm, and D0 is the nominal value of weft threads count expressed in threads per 10 cm. NOTE The nominal value of the deviation rate of weft threads count of woven adhesive interlining is the requirement of customer or the design target value, which is agreed upon through sales contract between both parties.

6.2 The test method for mass per unit area measurement is carried out according to the method 6 of GB/T 4669-2008, calculate the mass deviation rate per unit area according to Formula (2), and round off the result to one decimal place according to the requirements in GB/T 8170. In Formula (2), G is the mass deviation rate per unit area, m1 is the measured value of mass per unit area expressed in g/m2, and m0 is the nominal value of mass per unit area expressed in g/m2. NOTE The nominal value of the mass per unit area of woven adhesive interlining is the requirement of customer or the fabric design target value, which is agreed upon through sales contract between both parties.

6.3 The test method for peeling strength is carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 01085-2018. In case of any dispute, adopt the test result with specimen width of 5 cm.

6.4 The test method for dimensional change rate after washing shall be carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 60047 and FZ/T 01084.

6.5 The test method for dimensional change rate of assembled specimen after steam-press is carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 60031-2020, and in dispute, adopt the test result with method B in FZ/T 60031-2020.

6.6 The test method for heat dimensional change rate of assembled specimen is carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 01082.

6.7 The test method for adhesive applied mass deviation rate is carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 01081.

6.8 The test method for appearance change of assembled specimen after laundering is carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 01084. Appearance change of assembled specimen after dry-cleaning is carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 01083. Appearance change assessment replicas of the adhesive interlining after washing is carried out in accordance with the requirements of Annex A.

6.9 The test method for hot-melt adhesive penetration of assembled specimen is carried out according to the requirements in FZ/T 01110.

6.10 The test method for colour fastness to dry cleaning is carried out according to the requirements in GB/T 5711.

6.11 The test method for colour fastness to soap washing is carried out according to method A (1) single fibre adjacent fabric in GB/T 3921-2008.

6.12 The test method for colour fastness to hot pressing is carried out according to the requirements in GB/T 6152-1997 (tidal pressing method, with temperature of 150 degrees C plus or minus 2 degrees C).

6.13 The inspection for width is carried out according to the requirements in GB/T 4666.

6.14 The inspection for colour difference is assessed according to the requirements in GB/T 250.

6.15 The inspection for skewness is carried out according to the requirements in GB/T 14801.

6.16 The test method for flaking powder is carried out according to method B of FZ/T 60034-2021.

6.17 The inspection method for local defects and spread defects is carried out according to the GB/T 31902.

7 Inspection rules

The inspection rules is accordance with GB/T 28465.

8 Marking and packing

The marking and packing is accordance with GB/T 31903.

9 Others

For specific varieties or unique requirements by the users, they is negotiated and agreed upon by both parties in the sales contract.