FZ/T 73001-2016Hosiery (English PDF)

Foreword

This standard was drafted in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009.

This standard replaces FZ/T 73001-2008 “Hosiery”. Compared with FZ/T 73001-2008, the main technical changes are as follows:

a) the scope of application of the standard was revised (see Clause 1); b) the introductory wording of the normative references was adjusted (see Clause 2); c) the terms of the former standard were deleted and the terms hosiery size, nonelastic hosiery, elastic hosiery with heel, elastic hosiery without heel, elastic hosiery without setting, hosiery with single layer bottom and hosiery with reinforced bottom were added (see Clause 3); d) the product classification was revised, and the classification of ankle socks (boat socks), pantyhose with set heel, pantyhose with heel and open-toe pantyhose was made explicit; e) an illustration of the ankle sock (boat sock) was added (see Figure 2);

f) the total length tolerance, the opening height tolerance and the opening width tolerance were deleted from the specification sizes and tolerances (see 5.3.1.2); g) the first and last hosiery sizes in the table of specification sizes and tolerances were adjusted, and some bottom lengths were changed; h) the requirements for specification sizes and tolerances were revised, the former Tables 1 to 6 being merged into Tables 1 to 3 of this standard; i) the assessment index for the opening width tolerance of elastic hosiery without heel was adjusted (see Table 3); j) Table 7 of the former standard, on the grading provisions, was deleted; k) some surface defects were adjusted and added (see 5.3.2);

l) the assessment indices for the longitudinal and transverse extension values and their tolerances were revised, the corresponding notes were added, and the former Tables 9 to 15 were merged into Tables 5 to 7 of this standard (see 5.4.1); m) part of the requirements of the former Table 17 on the grading of internal quality were adjusted, and the former Tables 16 and 17 were merged into Table 8 of this standard; n) the wording describing the transverse extension position of the leg of hosiery with heel and the longitudinal extension position of the sock bottom was adjusted (see b) and c) of 6.4.1.2.1); o) a diagram of the clamping position of the sock bottom of hosiery with heel was added (see Figure 5);

p) the test description of the transverse extension position of the lower leg of pantyhose, of the longitudinal extension position of the crotch and of the longitudinal extension position of the leg length was revised (see d), e) and f) of 6.4.1.2.3); q) the types of hosiery tested with the standard tension and the extended tension were revised (see 6.4.1.3.1); r) the description of the longitudinal tensile test on the bottom length of cotton/spandex core-spun interwoven (thick) hosiery was deleted; s) the rule of decision for the longitudinal and transverse extension values was revised (see 7.2.1); t) the sampling position for fibre content was revised (see 6.4.3); u) the way of stating the specification marking was adjusted (see 8.1.2).

This standard was proposed by the China National Textile and Apparel Council and is under the jurisdiction of the Knitted Goods Subcommittee of the National Technical Committee on Textiles of Standardization Administration of China (SAC/TC 209/SC 6).

Drafting organizations: Tianfangbiao Testing Technology Co., Ltd.; Haining Naier Hosiery Co., Ltd.; Zhongshan Fenghua Hosiery Factory Co., Ltd.; Guangdong Jinfa Labi Maternity and Baby Articles Co., Ltd.; Guangdong Cosmo Lady Industrial Co., Ltd.; Shenzhen Huijie Group Co., Ltd.; Hengyuanxiang (Group) Co., Ltd.; Zhejiang Mengna Hosiery Co., Ltd.; Zhejiang Bonas Hosiery Co., Ltd.; Jilin Northeast Hosiery Industrial Park Knitting Co., Ltd.; Zhejiang Hosiery Co., Ltd.; Zhejiang Grace Co., Ltd.; Hunan Shali Hosiery Co., Ltd.; Nike Sports (China) Co., Ltd.; Dongguan Yishion Group Co., Ltd.; Qingdao Jifa Group Co., Ltd.; Shenzhen Purcotton Technology Co., Ltd.; Beijirong (Shanghai) Textile Technology Development Co., Ltd.; Yingshi Infant and Child Products Co., Ltd.; Beijing Garment Quality Supervision and Inspection Station No. 1.

Principal drafters: Liu Fengrong, Shi Jigang, Ding Hanlin, Zhao Juanzhi, Lin Ruowen, Li Wanfang, Dong Xiaoying, He Aifang, Wang Haiyan, Huang Xumin, Qi Shaoxin, Hong Dongying, Shi Ranyu, Liu Jinfu, Gao Zhifang, Xiao Xiuqun, Han Jianfeng, Mi Can, Wu Yiming, Jiang Bo, Zhang Yanfeng.

The standard was first issued in 1991 and revised in 2004 and in 2008.

1 Scope

This standard specifies the terms and definitions, the product classification, the requirements, the inspection rules, the rules of decision and the instructions for use, packaging, transportation and storage of hosiery.

It applies to the assessment of the quality of men's and women's hosiery. It does not apply to compression stockings, warp-knitted hosiery, sports socks, ladder-resist hosiery and the like.

This standard does not apply to hosiery for infants of 36 months and under.

2 Normative references

The following documents are indispensable to the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition bearing the date applies; for undated references, the latest edition (including all amendments) applies.

GB/T 250 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Grey scale for assessing change in colour · GB/T 2910 (all parts) Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis · GB/T 2912.1 Textiles — Determination of formaldehyde — Part 1: Free and hydrolysed formaldehyde (water extraction method) · GB/T 3920 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to rubbing · GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to washing with soap or soap and soda · GB/T 3922 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to perspiration · GB/T 4856 Packaging of knitted cotton goods · GB 5296.4 Instructions for use of products of consumer interest — Part 4: Textiles and apparel · GB/T 5713 Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to water · GB/T 7573 Textiles — Determination of pH of aqueous extract · GB/T 16988 Determination of the content of mixtures of special animal fibre and sheep wool · GB/T 17592 Textiles — Determination of the banned azo colourants · GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products · GB/T 29862 Textiles — Identification of fibre content · GB 31701 Safety technical code for infants and children textile products · FZ/T 01026 Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Mixtures of four components fibre · FZ/T 01057 (all parts) Test method for identification of textile fibres · FZ/T 01095 Textiles — Testing and evaluation for spandex products · FZ/T 01101 Textiles — Determination of fibre content — Physical method · FZ/T 30003 Quantitative analysis method for flax and cotton blend products — Microprojection method · GSB 16-2159 Standard depth sample card for knitted products (1/12) · GSB 16-2610 Colour sample photographs of surface defects of hosiery

3 Terms and definitions

The following terms and definitions apply to this document.

3.1 Hosiery size — the length of the sole of the human foot expressed in centimetres; it is the basis on which the length of the sock bottom is designed.

3.2 Nonelastic hosiery — hosiery with a heel (a knitted, shaped heel) containing no elastic fibre, the welt excepted. Example: pure cotton socks.

3.3 Elastic hosiery with heel — hosiery with a heel (a knitted, shaped heel) containing elastic fibre, the welt excepted. Examples: socks interwoven with spandex core-spun yarn, socks interwoven with elastic nylon filament.

3.4 Elastic hosiery without heel — hosiery without a heel containing elastic fibre. Examples: elastic ankle socks, mid-calf socks, long stockings and pantyhose.

3.5 Elastic hosiery without setting — elastic hosiery without heel that has not been through a setting process.

3.6 Hosiery with single layer bottom — hosiery whose bottom has not been reinforced.

3.7 Hosiery with reinforced bottom — hosiery whose bottom has been reinforced.

4 Product classification

4.1 By the presence of elastic fibre, products are divided into nonelastic hosiery and elastic hosiery, the latter comprising elastic hosiery with heel and elastic hosiery without heel.

4.2 By style, products are divided into hosiery with heel, which includes ankle socks (boat socks), and hosiery without heel, which includes ankle socks, mid-calf socks, long stockings, pantyhose and the like; among these, pantyhose with set heel, pantyhose with heel and open-toe pantyhose all fall in the pantyhose category.

5 Requirements

5.1 Content of the requirements. The requirements are divided into appearance quality requirements and internal quality requirements. Appearance quality covers the specification sizes and tolerances (not assessed for elastic hosiery with heel), the surface defects and the sewing provisions. Internal quality covers formaldehyde content, pH value, odour, azo colourants that release carcinogenic arylamines, fibre content, colour fastness to water, to perspiration, to rubbing and to washing with soap, and the transverse and longitudinal extension values.

5.2 Grading provisions. 5.2.1 The quality of hosiery is graded by the pair (or piece) into first-quality products and qualified products. 5.2.2 In grading, internal quality is assessed by batch and appearance quality by the pair (or piece); the two are combined and the grade is set by the lowest of them.

5.3 Appearance quality requirements. 5.3.1 Specification sizes and tolerances: the names of the parts of a sock are given in Figures 1 to 4; the sizes and tolerances of nonelastic hosiery are given in Table 1 (hosiery sizes 12 to 30, with a bottom length tolerance of +0.5 cm / -0.8 cm), those of elastic hosiery with heel in Table 2, whose bottom lengths and tolerances are reference sizes and do not take part in the assessment of appearance quality, and the opening width tolerance of elastic hosiery without heel in Table 3. 5.3.2 Surface defects are assessed against Table 4 and, for colour, against GSB 16-2610.

5.4 Internal quality requirements. 5.4.1 The transverse and longitudinal extension values are given in Tables 5 to 7. For nonelastic hosiery and elastic hosiery with heel, the longitudinal extension value of the bottom runs from 29.0 cm at hosiery size 19 to 20 up to 43.0 cm at size 29 to 30, and the transverse extension value of the welt and leg from 17.0 cm to 19.0 cm; ankle socks (boat socks) are not assessed for the transverse extension value and their longitudinal extension value may be reduced by 1.0 cm. For elastic hosiery without heel, Table 7 gives the transverse extension values of the welt, upper leg and lower leg, of the waist opening and of the hip, and the longitudinal extension values of the crotch and of the leg length, by category: ankle socks, mid-calf socks, long stockings and pantyhose. Elastic hosiery without heel marked as children's, or of a children's style, is not assessed for extension values, and the longitudinal leg-length extension value of open-toe pantyhose is reduced by 20.0 cm.

5.4.2 The other internal quality requirements and the grading provisions are given in Table 8: formaldehyde content, pH value, odour and azo colourants releasing carcinogenic arylamines follow GB 18401, and fibre content follows GB/T 29862. Colour fastness to water, to perspiration and to washing with soap shall be at least grade 3 for change in colour and staining; colour fastness to rubbing shall be at least grade 3 dry and grade 3 wet, grade 2-3 wet for dark shades. Hosiery for children within the scope of GB 31701 shall also meet the relevant requirements of that mandatory standard. Shades are classified against GSB 16-2159: deeper than 1/12 standard depth is a dark shade, 1/12 standard depth or lighter is a light shade.

6 Inspection rules

6.1 Sampling quantity. 6.1.1 For appearance quality, samples are taken at random from the delivery batch by variety, shade and specification, at 2 % to 3 % of the batch but not fewer than 10 pairs (pieces). 6.1.2 For internal quality, samples are taken at random from the delivery batch by variety, shade and specification, not fewer than 5 pairs (pieces).

6.2 Inspection of appearance quality. 6.2.1 Inspection is normally carried out under lamp light: one 40 W cool-white or white fluorescent lamp with a shade, the shade 50 cm ± 5 cm vertically above the centre of the inspection table, or under a D65 light source. 6.2.2 Where indoor daylight is used, the light shall be adequate and shall enter from the upper left (or right) of the north side, and the product shall not be in direct sunlight. 6.2.3 During inspection the product is laid flat on the inspection table and the inspector looks squarely at its surface; where a suspect defect may affect internal quality the product may be examined closely or from the reverse, but grading is based on the flat, straight-on view (gloves shall be worn when inspecting silk hosiery). 6.2.4 Specification sizes are measured free of external tension, with a rule longer than the sample and accurate to 0.1 cm; the bottom length is measured with the sock laid flat on a smooth surface, between the heel point and the toe. 6.2.5 Colour difference is assessed to GB/T 250.

6.3 Preparation of the internal quality test specimens. 6.3.1 The specimens shall be free of defects that would affect the accuracy of the test. 6.3.2 Specimens are opened out and laid flat at room temperature for 20 h, then kept for 4 h at a laboratory temperature of 20 °C ± 2 °C and a relative humidity of 65 % ± 4 %, and the extension test is carried out in the same atmosphere.

6.4 Internal quality test methods. 6.4.1 Longitudinal and transverse extension values. The test instruments are an electric transverse tensile tester with a standard tension of 25 N ± 0.50 N, an extended standard tension of 33 N ± 0.65 N and a lever travel speed of 40 mm/s ± 2 mm/s, or a multifunction tensile tester adjustable from 0.1 N to 100 N with a length measuring range of (25 to 300) cm ± 1 cm and the same tensions and speed. The test positions are set for hosiery with heel, for hosiery without heel and for pantyhose; on hosiery with heel the transverse extension of the leg is measured 1.0 cm above the heel height on the reinforced part for hosiery with reinforced bottom and at the middle of the leg for hosiery with single layer bottom, and the longitudinal extension of the bottom is clamped about 1.0 cm from the toe to about 3.0 cm past the heel point (see Figure 5). Elastic hosiery without heel is tested with the standard tension and the other types with the extended tension; for pantyhose the transverse positions are tested first and the longitudinal positions after a 30 min rest, and the two legs are tested separately. The pass rate A is calculated as A = n/N x 100 %, where n is the number of positions that pass and N the total number of positions tested.

6.4.2 Colour fastness tests: to washing with soap, method A(1) of GB/T 3921-2008; to perspiration, GB/T 3922, on a specimen cut from the sock bottom; to rubbing, GB/T 3920, on a specimen cut from the sock bottom, in the longitudinal direction only; to water, GB/T 5713. 6.4.3 Fibre content is tested to GB/T 2910 (all parts), FZ/T 01057 (all parts), FZ/T 01095, FZ/T 01026, GB/T 16988, FZ/T 01101 and FZ/T 30003; the specimen is normally cut from the instep or from the sock bottom, the toe and heel excepted. 6.4.4 Formaldehyde content is tested to GB/T 2912.1. 6.4.5 pH value is tested to GB/T 7573. 6.4.6 Odour is tested to GB 18401. 6.4.7 Azo colourants that release carcinogenic arylamines are tested to GB/T 17592.

7 Rules of decision

7.1 Appearance quality. Taking the pair (piece) as the unit, the batch is judged unacceptable if the proportion failing to reach the grade exceeds 5.0 %, or if holes and dropped stitches reach 3.0 % or more.

7.2 Internal quality. 7.2.1 For the longitudinal and transverse extension values, a pass rate of 80 % or more on the 5 pairs (pieces) tested is acceptable. 7.2.2 Where the results for formaldehyde content, pH value, odour, azo colourants releasing carcinogenic arylamines and fibre content are all acceptable, the batch is judged acceptable; if one of them fails, the batch is judged unacceptable. 7.2.3 Where the results for colour fastness to water, to perspiration, to rubbing and to washing with soap are acceptable, the batch is judged acceptable; where they are not, the batch is judged unacceptable shade by shade.

7.3 Re-inspection. 7.3.1 Either party may ask for a re-inspection where it disputes the result. 7.3.2 The re-inspection is carried out as specified in 7.2 and 7.3, and the result of the re-inspection governs.

8 Instructions for use, packaging, transportation and storage

8.1 The instructions for use follow GB 5296.4; for children's hosiery they follow GB 5296.4 and GB 31701. 8.1.1 The fibre content is normally declared for the instep or for the sock bottom, the toe and heel excepted. 8.1.2 The specification is marked as follows: a) nonelastic hosiery is marked with the hosiery size in centimetres, for example 23 or 24; b) elastic hosiery with heel is marked with the hosiery size in centimetres, for example 23 to 24 or 22 to 24; c) elastic hosiery without heel — ankle, mid-calf and long stockings — is marked in centimetres with the height range of the wearer or with the hosiery size, for example 155 to 175, 145 to 155, or 23 to 24, 22 to 24; d) pantyhose is marked in centimetres with the height range and the hip range of the wearer, for example 155 to 175 / 75 to 105, or 145 to 155 / 70 to 90.

8.2 Packaging follows GB/T 4856 or the agreement between the parties.

8.3 The product shall be protected from fire, damp and contamination when boxed and transported.

8.4 The product shall be stored in a cool, ventilated, dry and clean warehouse, protected against mildew and insects.