GB/T 19981.1-2014Textiles - Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments - Part 1: Assessment of performance after cleaning and finishing (English PDF)

Foreword

GB/T 19981, Textiles - Professional Care, Drycleaning and Wetcleaning of Fabrics and Garments, is divided into 4 parts. -- Part 1. Assessment of Performance after Cleaning and Finishing; -- Part 2. Procedure for Testing Performance When Cleaning and Finishing Using Tetrachloroethene; -- Part 3. Procedure for Testing Performance When Cleaning and Finishing Using Hydrocarbon Solvent; -- Part 4. Procedure for Testing Performance When Cleaning and Finishing Using Simulated Wetcleaning. This Part is the 1st part of GB/T 19981. This Part was drafted in accordance with the rules given in GB/T 1.1-2009. This Part replaces GB/T 19981.1-2005, Textiles - Professional Care, Drycleaning and Wetcleaning of Fabrics and Garments - Part 1. Assessment of Performance after Cleaning and Finishing. Compared with GB/T 19981.1-2005, the main changes of this Part are as follows: -- it changes "drycleaning" in the name and text of the standard to "cleaning"; -- it uses reference GB/T 7569.7 to replace original reference GB 11404, uses reference GB/T 29257 to replace original reference ISO 9867 and uses reference GB/T 21196.4 to replace original reference ISO 12947, in Normative References; -- it modifies the specifications of cleaning and finishing apparatus in 5.1; -- it modifies the content of wrinkle recovery in Table 1; -- it changes "colour fastness to spotting" to "colour fastness to wetcleaning"; -- it modifies the content of footnote b in Table 1. This Part modifies and adopts ISO 3175-1.2010, Textiles - Professional Care, Drycleaning and Wetcleaning of Fabrics and Garments - Part 1. Assessment of Performance after Cleaning and Finishing (English version). Compared with ISO 3175- 1.2010, the main differences of this Part are as follows: -- it changes "drycleaning" to "cleaning" in the text; -- it replaces the International Standards with corresponding National Standards in Normative References; Textiles - Professional Care, Drycleaning and Wetcleaning of Fabrics and Garments - Part 1. Assessment of Performance after Cleaning and Finishing

1 Application Scope

GB/T 19981.1 is the first part of the Chinese standard on the professional care of fabrics and garments, and it sets out how a garment is assessed after it has been cleaned and finished. It is the document a dispute between a customer, a retailer and a dry cleaner is settled with, and disputes of that kind are common because a garment that comes back shrunken, distorted, faded or with the interlining bubbled has usually failed for a reason present before it was cleaned. The standard specifies the assessment: the preparation and the marking of the specimen, the reference cleaning procedure it is subjected to, the properties assessed afterwards, dimensional change, appearance and handle, colour change and staining, the condition of the seams, the trim, the interlining and the fusible components, and the shape retention after finishing, together with the rating scales, the assessment conditions and lighting, and the report. The 2014 edition replaces GB/T 19981.1-2005. For a garment maker, a retailer or a professional cleaner in China, this is the reference procedure.

This part of GB/T 19981 specifies a method for assessing textile articles which have been tested according to GB/T 19981. Fabric and garment properties, which can change on cleaning and finishing, are identified and methods for assessing change using this part are given as appropriate. Other properties which are also important, but for which there are no Standards providing methods of assessment, are indicated in Annex A, together with advice on how to proceed on their assessment.

2 Normative References

The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

GB/T 250, Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour ( GB/T 250-2008, ISO 105-A02.1993, IDT)

GB/T 251, Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Grey Scale for Assessing Staining ( GB/T 251-2008, ISO 105-A03.1993, IDT)

GB/T 4745, Textiles - Determination of Resistance to Surface Wetting of Fabrics - Spray Test ( GB/T 4745-2012, ISO 4920.2012, MOD)

GB/T 5711, Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Dry-Cleaning ( GB/T 5711-1997, eqv ISO 105-D01.1993)

GB/T 6529, Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing ( GB/T 6529-2008, ISO 139.2005, MOD)

GB/T 7568.7, Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Standard adjacent fabrics - Part 7. Multifibre ( GB/T 7568.7-2008, ISO 105-F10.1989, MOD)

GB/T 8628, Textiles - Preparation, Marking and Measuring of Fabric Specimens and Garments in Tests for Determination of Dimensional Change ( GB/T 8628-2013, ISO 3759.2011, MOD)

GB/T 12490, Textiles - Tests for Colour Fastness - Colour Fastness to Domestic and Commercial Laundering ( GB/T 12490, ISO 105-C06.2010, MOD)

GB/T 13769, Textiles - Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Cleansing ( GB/T 13769-2009, ISO 7768.2006, MOD)

GB/T 13770, Textiles - Test Method for Assessing the Appearance of Creases in Fabrics after Cleansing ( GB/T 13770-2009, ISO 7769.2006, MOD)

GB/T 13771, Textiles - Test Method for Assessing the Smoothness Appearance of Seams in Fabrics after Cleansing ( GB/T 13771-2009, ISO 7770.2006, MOD)

GB/T 19881.2, Textiles - Professional Care, Drycleaning and Wetcleaning of Fabrics and Garments - Part 2. Procedure for Testing Performance When Cleaning and Finishing Using Tetrachloroethene ( GB/T 19981.2-2014, ISO 3175-2.2010, MOD)

GB/T 19881.3, Textiles - Professional Care, Drycleaning and Wetcleaning of Fabrics and Garments - Part 3. Procedure for Testing Performance When Cleaning and Finishing Using Hydrocarbon Solvent ( GB/T 19981.3-2009, ISO 3175-3.2003, MOD)

3 Terms and Definitions

For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

3.1 composite test specimen test specimen consisting of all component parts used in the finished item, and combined in a representative assembly

3.2 cleanability - water resistance (GB/T 4744, GB/T 4745 and GB/T 14577); - flame resistance (e.g. GB/T 8746). For the assessment of finishes for which there are no available National Standards or Industrial Standards, see Table A.1. d This can affect the level of finishing required by the cleaner and also the effect on the finished garment, e.g. double creases, glazing. See Annex A.

7.8 For certain properties, there are no Standards which provide methods for assessment. Nevertheless, these are important properties for assessing cleanability of textile items, and procedures for dealing with them are given in Annex A.

8 Test Report

The test report (see the example in Annex B) shall include the following information.

a) reference to this part of GB/T 19981, i.e. GB/T 19981.1;

b) name of testing authority and report identification;

c) date of testing;

d) cross-reference to any other part issued under GB/T 19981;

e) details of the item evaluated (description and reference);

f) details of the cleaning and finishing procedures used, as specified in GB/T 19981;

g) total number of cleaning and finishing procedures;

h) appropriate properties assessed from Table 1, together with the methods of assessment and results;

i) comments on appropriate properties which appear in Table A.1;